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Tomato Blight Treatment
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Tomato blight, also known sometimes as potato blight, is a fungal disease which is caused by wet, damp conditions and mainly affects tomato plants growing outdoors.
However, greenhouses that are poorly aerated can also be a cause of blight because of high humidity and condensation.
If it has been wet in your area for a prolonged period, and you are growing tomatoes outside, it is possible that your plants have, or could soon have blight.
The combination of wet leaves and high humidity over a prolonged period is almost curtain to cause tomato blight. As a fungal infection, it can easily spread from plant to plant and on fingers too, so it’s best not to touch plant leaves and run the risk of contaminating healthy plants.
It is common to have a touch of fungal infection on one or two lower leaves when growing outdoors if you live in an area that gets a lot of rain. Remove the infected leaves and leaf branches, and keep the base of plants free from decaying leaves. Good air circulation at soil level helps keep plants healthy.
Tomato Blight Treatment
However, if blight has affected a number of leaves it is time to spray with Dithane 945 or apply Bordeaux Mixture. This may stop the disease spreading, and more importantly infecting other plants, but there is no cure for blight, it is only possible to stop it getting worse.
Treatment for tomato blight may be different depending on country regulations regarding the use of chemicals for garden use, but just ask at your garden center for a systemic fungicide.
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| (Published: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 12:54:00 +0000) |
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Brandywine for Taste
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Brandywine is considered one of the best of all tomatoes for taste. However, because it's a late maturing variety, it is best grown under cover in short season areas. As you'll see from the quote below, it is also low in yield and and ripens unevenly. But these are a small price to pay for such a great tasting tomato! Brandywine is an heirloom tomato, which means it’s open-pollinated and not a hybrid. It’s a large, meaty, pink, late-season tomato. Gardeners excuse its low yield and uneven ripening because of its classic tomato flavor. I grew this variety outdoors and it produced about half a dozen tomatoes per plant. You'd need to have quite a few to want to give these away to the neighbours! |
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| (Published: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 08:46:00 +0000) |
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Tomato Fun Information
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One of the great tomato fests or even pilgrimages is La Tomatina tomato fight, where people throw tomatoes at each other. I expect that wearing a white t-shirt makes it all the more fun! La Tomatina (BÅ©nol, Valencia, Spain), held annually on the last Wednesday in August, attracts tens of thousands of visitors. The highlight is the tomato fight, in which 30,000+ participants throw an estimated 150,000 overripe tomatoes (100 metric tons) at each other. I hope they are all ripe - a few unripe tomatoes could hurt a lot! |
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| (Published: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 19:12:00 +0000) |
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Tomato Plant Side Shoots
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If you haven't grown tomatoes before, side shoots can be a bit confusing.
Here's a quick guide on which varieties to remove side shoots and which varieties to leave side shoots (sometimes called suckers) on the plant.
Tall Varieties
Remove side shoots on tall varieties like Moneymaker, Alicante, Gardener's Delight and Sungold.
Tall varieties are also called indeterminate or cordon.
Bush Varieties
Leave side shoots on bush varieties such as Tumbler, Tumbling Tom, Garden Pearl and Red Alert.
Bush varieties are also called determinate because they grow to a predetermined height.
Because bush varieties are only grow to between 1ft and 2ft high, they are great to grow in large pots and can be moved around the garden or patio if required.
The height of tall varieties means that they are going to stay in the same position all summer and are suitable for grow bags.
If you intend to grow tomatoes in your garden soil, it is likely that every bug under the sun will have a nibble on your tomato plants and tomatoes when they are ready, so unless you are an experienced gardener, I suggest you start with growing tomatoes in containers.
If you have any questions I'll be happy to answer them. nick@tomatogrowing.co.uk
For more information on side shoots please visit the link below.
http://www.tomatogrowing.co.uk/html/side_shoots___trusses.html
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| (Published: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 17:38:00 +0000) |
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Feeding Tomatoes
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Tomato plants require regular feeding when they are producing tomatoes but before then, will only require the minerals and nutrients that are already found in new compost.
This means that feeding tomatoes isn't really necessary until the flowers have set and small the small fruit start to grow.
One of the mistakes that people who are new to growing tomatoes make is to give give small plants tomato food. This is only necessary for tomato plants when they are fruiting, feeding young plants a full strength dose of tomato food can sometimes cause root damage.
These are some of the ways I would feed my small plants, and plants not yet fruiting.
- General purpose plant food at half strength.
- Liquid seaweed extract
- An organic stimulant or tonic such as SB Plant Invigorator
Other nutrients that are sometimes used are epsom salts (magnesium sulphate) and extra calcium (to help prevent blossom end rot). Both of these "extras" may be given as a foliar feed to boost a plants intake of a particular nutrient, usually because of signs of a deficiency. The problem is however, as soon as symptoms appear in tomato plants, it is often too late to make much difference.
Don't get too concerned with feeding tomato plants because if you do, you'll probably kill them with kindness and give them too much.
To Sum Up
If plants have been transplanted into new compost - within the last four or five weeks - they do not need to be fed.
However, when transplanting, a half strength feed of general purpose food is helpful (but not essential) because it helps the plants become established in their new home.
Give tomato food (only) when plants start to fruit - little and often is the best way. Professional growers usually feed at every watering, at a reduced strength, so plants always have access to food as they need it.
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| (Published: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 18:20:00 +0000) |
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Don't Put All Your Toms In One Basket
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If you're like me, you've sown tomato seeds this season and you probably have too many plants.
The problem is, the plants get bigger and bigger, need potting into bigger pots on a regular basis and the bag of compost gets lower and lower and it's back to the garden centre - again! (I know I should have bought that 3 for 2 offer).
If you have a lot of plants, especially the ones like Tumbling Tom that are suitable for hanging baskets, the temptation is to put too many plants into one basket.
In my experience one, two at the most, is the right amount because tomato plants need a reasonable amount of room for their roots. Also, the more plants you have in a hanging basket, the quicker it will dry out in warm weather.
One well grown plant can produce the same amount of tomatoes (or more) as two poorly grown plants that have had to struggle in crowded conditions.
So don't put all your toms in one basket - if you run out of room, the easiest and cheapest solution is to use a grow bag at three plants per bag.
See also: Tomato Quick Start Guide at the Tomato Growing website.
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| (Published: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 06:55:00 +0000) |
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Know Your Nutrients - Feeding Tomatoes
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There are three macro nutrients, three secondary nutrients and six micro nutrients.
The secondary and micronutrients are sometimes called trace elements and are not always present in tomato food, although they should be present in a good quality tomato feed and compost.
The problem is, tomato plants are heavy feeders and will require all twelve elements after the food in your grow bag or container has been used up. So check the contents of your tomato food and if it doesn’t contain all of the elements listed below, supplement it with a general feed such as miracle grow or some other plant food that contains trace elements.
Macro N-P-K
Nitrogen (N) Macro nutrient - Under nitrogen deficiency, the older mature leaves gradually change from their normal green appearance to a much paler green. As the deficiency progresses these older leaves become uniformly yellow (chlorotic). Stunted growth and purpling/reddening along the veins on the underside of larger leaves.are also symptoms.
Phosphorus (P) Macro nutrient - a distinct purpling of the stem, petiole (leaf branches) and the under sides of the leaves. If deficiency is severe, leaves can develop a blue-gray luster and growth may be stunted.
Potassium (K) Macro nutrient - Leaves show marginal tip burn (necrosis) and again, growth may be stunted.
Secondary
Magnesium (Mg) Secondary -magnesium deficiency generally starts with mottled yellowing (chlorotic) areas that develop in between the leaf veins. As the deficiency progresses, small brown patches develop in the yellow areas.
Calcium (Ca) Secondary - show dying areas (necrosis) around the base of the leaves. Yellow/brown spots may also appear on the edge of leaves. These spots can also be surrounded by a sharp brown outlined edge. This often affects the older leaves first.
Sulfur (S) Secondary - The veins and petioles (leaf branches) show a very distinct reddish colour. and leaves turn yellow.
Micro
Iron (Fe) Micro nutrient - show strong chlorosis (yellowing) at the base of the leaves with some green netting. Symptoms may also show yellowing of young leaves, while the veins remain green.
Manganese (Mn) Micro nutrient - Shows a light chlorosis of the young leaves and netted veins of the mature leaves especially when they are viewed through transmitted light.
Boron (B) Micro nutrient - Younger leaves show a light yellowing/browning. A cluster of leaves develop in the same place. Leaf margins twist and leaves become brittle.
Copper (Cu) Micro nutrient - Copper-deficient leaves are curled, and their petioles bend downward. Leaves show a wilted appearance with yellow to brown patches. Mature leaves may become bleached between the veins.
Zinc (Zn) Micro nutrient - The younger leaves become yellow and pitting develops in the interveinal upper surfaces of the mature leaves. Older leaves develop brown patches in between the veins. Young leaves very small and develop in a cluster in the same space.
Molybdenum (Mo) Micro nutrient - Leaves show some mottled spotting along with some interveinal chlorosis (yellowing). An early symptom for molybdenum deficiency is a general overall chlorosis, similar to the symptom for nitrogen deficiency but without the reddish coloration on the undersides of the leaves. Upward cupping of the leaves may also be seen.
You will notice that deficiencies show themselves usually on the lower leaves first. That’s because plants put all they have into top growth first and lower, older leaves tend to be second in the queue!
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| (Published: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 21:13:00 +0000) |
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How to Grow Tomatoes - Beginners Guide
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How to grow tomatoes - a beginners guide.
There is nothing like the taste of home grown tomatoes, yet on the other hand, the frustration of poor results can often put off the "would be" tomato grower from trying again the following season. By the time the crop has failed it is often too late to start from scratch in the same season.
However, here are some tips and advice to help the beginner avoid the diseases and other problems associated with growing tomatoes. Many experienced gardeners will tell you that tomatoes are easy to grow - they are if you have had previous experience and know especially what tomato plants don't like.
- Use new compost for seeds and plants because old soil or compost may contain all sots of nasties. Nutrients also degrade over time, so fresh comost (multi-purpose for example) is the most nutritious.
- Clean and sterilise all pots and containers used last season - especially if they were used for tomatoes.
- When seeds germinate, keep the seedlings in as light a position as possible to prevent them from becoming leggy.
- Transplant seedlings into individual pots 3inch or slightly larger and increase pot size as plants grow.
- Don't feed plants with tomato food until after pea-like tomatoes start to form as the flowers die. If plants are regularly potted-on into bigger pots containing new compost, they won't need to be fed as there is enough food in the compost.
- Don't remove the flowers as these are the future tomatoes.
- Stand plants in trays of water only when watering, then allow compost to almost dry out. Tomato plants need both moisture and air to grow a good root system and if they are stood in water all the time they will be vulnerable to disease.
- Contrary to popular opinion, tomatoes don't like rain because they hate water on their leaves - especially overnight when the temperature drops. Wet leaves for just a few days and your lovely little plants will probably get blight - this is very bad!
- Lastly, tomato plants can't cope with frost, or near frost temperatures, so keep them indoors overnight until after the last frost in your area.
Following the above tips will give a very good chance of success, by the way, cherry tomatoes are among the easiest to grow and a great place to start for beginners.
More tips and advice on how to grow tomatoes, especially for beginners, may be found at tomato growing.
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| (Published: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 18:40:00 +0000) |
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When To Sow Tomato Seed
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My urge to start sowing tomato seed begins in January but knowing It's best to sow about eight to ten weeks before the last frost in my area (end of May to be safe) means that I should wait until around the end of March.
Of course I can't wait that long and already the porch and kitchen are full of tomato seedlings and there are more germinating in the airing cupboard upstairs!
The difficulty with growing tomatoes from seed is that there is only a small window of opportunity - too early and the plants won't get enough light etc., too late and the season has come to an end because of cold temperatures before the fruit matures.
It takes around two months from seed to flower, and about the same from flower to fruit - a total of four months.
This growing time can be shortened with cherry varieties that mature early such as Red Alert and Tumbler. They not only mature early but they are more likely to ripen in a poor summer, in part, because smaller plants and tomatoes have less growing to do.
If you would like to sign up the the free Tomato Growing Newsletter for lots of tips and free advice.
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| (Published: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 09:05:00 +0000) |
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Tomato Plug Plants
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 It's always a good feeling to sow a seed and watch it grow into a full size plant then eat its fruit
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| (Published: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 12:52:00 +0000) |
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Big Tomatoes
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A neighbour came by the other day and asked if he could have 4 lbs of tomatoes
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| (Published: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 20:37:00 +0000) |
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Choosing Varieties for Blight Tolerance/Resistance
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There are two varieties that are often advertised as being blight tolerant - these are Ferline and Legend.
Anyone who has grown tomatoes outdoors will know that wet weather for long periods will cause blight
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| (Published: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 12:03:00 +0000) |
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Tomato Maskotka
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Maskotka is a bush cherry variety that I grew last season for the first time.
I now rate it among the best cherry varieties for container growing and I shall grow it again in 2010.
Its taste is excellent, it produces a good amount and the size is slightly larger than the average cherry tom such as Garden Pearl or Tumbling Tom.
I grew it in large pots to give it plenty of room. This usually produces a slightly larger fruit than if grown in crowded conditions.
If the weather is hot and you have a small container or hanging basket with several tomato plants in, you may need to water several times a day!
Adding water retaining gel or perlite to the soil/compost helps stop the soil from drying out. However, tomato plants, when fruiting, need lots of water and nutrients.
The taste of tomatoes may change from season to season depending on the amount of sun the plants receive.
In my experience I have found that a poor tasting variety one season, can have an excellent taste the following season. The amount of water or rain the plants receive, as the fruits swell, also has an influence on the taste.
Because of this, it is good to give a new variety two or three seasons to make a judgement on its taste - I hope it tastes as good this season!
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| (Published: Thu, 04 Feb 2010 11:19:00 +0000) |
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Growing Red Alert Tomatoes
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Red Alert is one of the more difficult cherry varieties to grow.
It requires a good amount of light to stop it becomming "leggy" (over-watering adds to this problem) and it needs a larger container than most other cherry varieties for it to produce a good crop. However, it is one of the earliest varieties I have grown, it produces a huge crop when grown in a large pot or container and its tomatoes are among the finest tasting - given a reasonable amount of sun during the season!
As an open pollinated variety (not F1) its seeds are cheap and you can save them for the following season.
Red Alert is very similar to Tumbler in size and taste, but Tumbler is an F1 variety with expensive seed.
Here is a typical seed packet description. I don't recommend growing Red Alert in a hanging basket but Tumbler will do well with limited root room.
 A superb flavoured, outdoor bush tomato which is very early to mature and heavy yielding. The size of the fruit depends partly on the amount of root space. If grown in a hanging basket, the fruit will be slightly smaller than if grown in a large container. You can expect weights of 4-5lb (1.8-2.25kg) per bush. 55-60 days from transplanting.
It is a good idea to limit the amount of tomato plants in a hanging basket - one or two will be enough. One well grown plant with plenty of room will produce as many tomatoes as two or three plants that are over-crowded in a limited space.
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| (Published: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 11:02:00 +0000) |
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Sowing Tomato Seed Early - Part 2
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At this time of the year I can't wait to get started. Sowing different tomato varieties and seeing them germinate is one of the great pleasures of the season.
Most seasons I sow too early and end up with lots of plants that are unable to go outside overnight, because of the frost, and the house becomes crowded with tomato plants!
My plan this season is to sow a few bush varieties that can cope with lower light conditions without becoming too leggy - remembering that they need space as they grow and potted up into bigger pots. I tried this idea last season and it worked fine with Glacier - a variety that can cope with low temperatures and will grow as a bush or tall type.
The variety I recommend for this is Tumbling Tom. It comes in red and yellow types, doesn't get leggy and produces a good size cherry that tastes great.
Normally the sowing time for outdoor growing is around two months befroe the last frost date in your area.
However, it is possible to sow three months before the last frost date if you sow a bush variety like Tumbling Tom, keep them in as much light as possible and away from damp, cold conditions (inside of course) and don't over water them.
It's great to have your own tomatoes early in the season and there are ways to etend the growing season at the other end too!
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| (Published: Tue, 02 Feb 2010 09:18:00 +0000) |
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Growing Tomatoes in Cold Conditions
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In November I blogged about starting an experiment to see if it is possible to grow tomatoes - in this case a cherry variety called Garden Pearl - over the winter period without extra light etc.
 Here is the result on the 28th January 2010. I've been very careful not to over water them as combined with cold night temperatures - in my porch - would probably cause fungal disease. The low light levels have produced seedlings that are more "leggy" than you would expect when grown in the Spring, but they are still healthy enough to continue growing. Of the three, the one in the center is the tallest but it also has the largest leaves. As long as they don't shoot up like rockets, I think that they'll make it through to Spring and hopefully produce the earliest crop of Garden Pearl tomatoes I've had. The important thing is not to over water tomato plants in periods of low light and cold conditions. Also, growing a bush variety is easier because they are shorter and easier to move around into the light etc.
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| (Published: Thu, 28 Jan 2010 20:11:00 +0000) |
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Sowing Tomatoes Early
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For outdoor growing, the best time to sow tomato seed is around two months before your estimated last frost date. So if the LFD date is the middle of May, you would sow around the middle of March.
However, is it possible, with a little extra TLC to sow earlier in order to get an early crop of tomatoes.
There are two problems that have to be worked around or overcome if you want to sow early:
- Low Temperatures
- Low Light Levels
Low temperatures may cause fungal disease - especially if plants receive too much water.
The other problem is that at low temperatures plant roots are unable to absorb the necessary nutrients for healthy growth.
Low light also contributes to poor growth. Solar energy is turned into chemical energy and plants create glucose, their main source of fuel, through photosynthesis - and that requires light. As a result, plants often become "leggy" because of their search for more light.
The Solutions
Artificial light and artificial heat and quite a lot of extra work!
I have found that growing bush varieties that won't become too leggy and keeping them in a cool (but not cold) area in as much light as possible, is a solution. You could also use a grow light to extend the daylight hours in the late winter and early spring.
In my next post I will let you know how the seedlings that I found growing in November in a large pot (they had self seeded from last season's plants) are doing.
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| (Published: Wed, 27 Jan 2010 10:51:00 +0000) |
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Tomato Varieties To Grow This Season - Outdoors
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At the end of last season - just as the season before - I decided to limit the amount of tomato plants I'll grow.
Each season, kind people send me seed - which has to be sown! - and I end up growing far more plants than I had intended. So I decided to ask myself a question:
If I could only grow one cherry variety, one medium variety and one large variety, which ones would I grow?
My first choice would be the bush Tumbling Tom - it comes in both red and yellow strains (I cheated a bit there!) and it is a decent size cherry and very reliable. The red tastes different from the yellow and the plants produce a very good yield. Will grow very well in large pots.
There are many excellent tall varieties but the one I would choose for outdoor growing is Alicante.
This is one of the finest tasting varieties and dependable in an unpredictable summer - weather-wise!
Great in a grow bag up against a sunny wall or fence.
For my final choice I'm back to the bush varieties and Oregon Spring is a favourite of mine. Its taste, size and reliability make it a great choice for outdoor growing; However, it does need room for its roots so give it a good size container.
When I think of all the varieties that I've left out
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| (Published: Tue, 26 Jan 2010 09:49:00 +0000) |
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Cherry Tomatoes - Hundreds and Thousands
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It's fascinating to grow any variety of tomato, but cherry tomatoes are very much my passion.
Last season (2009) was successful even though we had some very wet and very dry weather making container growing more of a challenge.
The most abundant and highest yield bush variety was Hundreds and Thousands - 100s & 1000s. It is often the case that a small cherry variety will produce a huge crop, but I didn't quite expect this amount - the name lives up to the results!
 Although this variety is on the small side of the usual cherry tomato size, its abundance and sweet taste makes it well worth growing in a large pot - kids will definately love them but will they make it to the kitchen before getting eaten?
A good place to get them in the UK is Tomato Seeds UK a new seed company that only sells this one variety!
More information about growing tomatoes may be found at: Tomato Growing and Tomato Growing Blog.
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| (Published: Mon, 25 Jan 2010 10:02:00 +0000) |
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The Benefits of a Greenhouse
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As an enthusiastic tomato grower, if I were given two wishes I would choose
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| (Published: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 08:38:00 +0000) |
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Developing A Good Root System
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One thing that I have been guilty of is being too generous to my plants.
Too much water, too much tomato food
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| (Published: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 09:01:00 +0000) |
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Know Your Roots
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As tomato growing enthusiasts, we are often more concerned about what's happening above the soil than we are below it. However, a good root system can help overcome many of the difficulties that a tomato plant faces throughout the season. It's a bit like being extra fit and healthy before they drop you off in the middle of the desert and you have to find your own way home!
Here are some of the advantages
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| (Published: Sat, 09 Jan 2010 18:56:00 +0000) |
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Tomato Seedlings in Cold Conditions
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In November I started an experiment to see if it is possible to grow tomatoes - in this case a cherry variety - over the winter period.
I've kept them in a light window and away from condensation that would probably result in a fungal infection.
Not watering too much, that is, keeping the soil almost dry, has also helped in keeping the seedlings healthy.
They are looking a little "leggy" but reasonably good for the middle of December.
Feeding will be unnecessary as the soil has plenty of nutrients and they won't need much at this slow rate of growth. Over-feeding and over-watering are two of the most popular mstakes that are made when growing tomatoes - killing them with kindness you might say!
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| (Published: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 09:38:00 +0000) |
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Growing Tomatoes in Hot Weather
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Here in the UK at this time of the year, people who grow tomatoes dream of warm sunny days surrounded by their beloved plants and of course
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| (Published: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 10:27:00 +0000) |
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Growing Tomatoes in the Winter
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Is it possible to grow tomatoes during the winter period, indoors without any extra lighting or hydroponic methods?
It is an interesting question because the urge to grow tomatoes all year round has tempted many to have a go at growing out of season - including me.
Looking at the little seedlings coming through the soil in a large pot, where a tomato from earlier this season had left its seeds, I decided to save three of the seedlings and put them in a small pot of there own.
Sowing tomato seed in November, and producing successful tomato plants, is possible for the commercial growers, growing in large greenhouses because they can control the temperature and the amount of (artificial) light the plants receive.
I've put the seedlngs in the lightest window in the house - my porch actually - and keep the temperature above freezing at night!
One guy who is doing this, or something similar, and writing about it on his blog is at the link below.
http://thegardenrockstar.com/2009/11/tomatoes-all-year-the-experiment-begins/
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| (Published: Mon, 16 Nov 2009 08:26:00 +0000) |
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Tomato Growing
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This blog will start again in the Spring of 2010.
However, during the winter period I'll write a few posts if I can think of anything useful to say!
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| (Published: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 16:13:00 +0000) |
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Late Season Success & Disappointments
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It is at this time of the year when I'm pleased to have grown a few varieties that mature towards the end of the season. Of course, if we get a poor summer ( a bit like we've just had in the UK) most varieties will mature late.
Anyway, Tumbling Tom yellow is still going strong, First in the Field (last in the garden) is beginning to do its thing and New Yorker looks as if it might produce a ripe tom before the end of the season - if I'm lucky!
I can't believe that Garden Pearl has taken so long to mature and that the taste of my Red Alert toms were not as good as they have been in previous seasons. Never mind, The Santa - red and yellow - tomatoes are producing well and they taste really nice - a bit like grapes actually.
I've still got a few varieties with only green tomatoes on them but the sun we're having at the moment should help a lot. A tray of tomatoes that are almost ripe are in the windowsill warming in the sun - it is difficult to throw away toms that are perfectly ok even if they are green - I must get a recipe or two for fried green tomatoes!
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| (Published: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 10:14:00 +0000) |
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The Weather Is On The Turn
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The temperature is dropping and it seems as if the Autumn is here. This is the time when the tomatoes slow down their ripening and I still have a few plants that haven't even started to produce fruit yet!
The large varieties are usually the last to ripen but there is still a Garden Pearl, in the greenhouse of all places, that has just started to fruit.
The Red Alert, Tumbling Tom red, and the Maskotka are on their last, but the Tumbling Tom yellow is still going strong and the First In The Field (I call it last in the garden!) has just come into its own.
My favourite large variety, Oregon Spring, didn't perform well this season, and neither did Gardener's Delight which is an old dependable - usually - but tasted watery this year.
There are a number of things that affect tomato taste:
- The variety.
- The amount of water a plant has received.
- The way a plant has been fed.
- The amount of sunshine.
I think that the last one, the amount of sunshine, has been the most significant in the UK this summer - I've had quite a few reports of poor taste in varieties that would normally shine :)
Still a few weeks left - and all those green tomatoes yet to ripen!
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| (Published: Wed, 02 Sep 2009 19:08:00 +0000) |
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| ( Source: http://tomato-daily.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default?alt=rss ) |
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